Bulova Presents “MIL-SHIPS” Timepieces - 150th Anniversary Edition

CuSn8 Bronze Case

The new Bulova MIL- SHIPS features a CuSn8 bronze case, echoing the aesthetics of 19th-century diving helmets while offering superior strength and durability. This rare and storied timepiece continues to captivate collectors and watch enthusiasts alike. The unique history of the MIL-SHIPS, combined with the rarity of the original prototypes, has made it a prized treasure among collectors and watch enthusiasts alike.

A NEW DIAL DESIGN

The central hour and minute hands are now diamond-cut, too; they and the central seconds hand are hand-polished, redone in the Alpha style to match the profile of the hour markers. The complete absence of Roman or Arabic numerals makes telling the time more intuitive. A new ‘railtrack’ minute circle bears witness to the accuracy of the hours and minutes indications, while an onion-type crown sits at 3 o’clock.

The highly minimalist ethos adopted for the dial has led to a full redesign of the hour markers, hands and minute circle. The applique hour markers are diamond-faceted, polished and slightly smaller at 5 and 7 o’clock, so as to give plenty of space to the date display and hand at 6 o’clock.

A Bold Tribute

The original Bulova MIL-SHIPS-W-2181 Submersible, developed for the U.S. Navy, was never released commercially; During WWII, the U.S. Navy's elite teams—Explosive Ordnance Disposal (EOD) and Underwater Demolition Teams (UDT)—required highly specialised equipment to support their missions. Recognising the need for a durable submersible watch, the Navy established the MIL-SHIPS-W-2181 specification in 1955. The watch needed to be watertight, resistant to water vapor, visible in darkness, and equipped with a rotatable bezel.

Nato Strap

One of the most significant updates to the collection lies in the strap design, which has been carefully refined for both aesthetics and functionality. The straps now feature a robust rubber base with a Cordura inlay, replacing the previous nylon NATO strap. This combination enhances durability while adding a tactile, premium feel. Additionally, the strap width has been increased from 16mm to 18mm, giving it a more substantial presence. These thoughtful adjustments were made to balance the visual and physical weight of the bronze case, ensuring that every detail aligns harmoniously with the timepiece’s overall design and purpose.

THREE COLOR OPTIONS

The first variation comes on a chocolate-brown alligator strap, with a salmon dial and silver hour markers and hands. The date and minute indications are black to ensure optimum readability. The same logic applies to the second option, with a silver sunburst dial on a navy blue alligator strap. The third model adopts a more contemporary contrast with a silver case, hands and hour markers and an all-black sunburst dial borne atop a matching alligator strap.